How to form Shapes and Patterns in your Garden Design

Time to learn more about how to design your perfect garden.

You have now completed you functional layout plan and taken into consideration the principles of design that I covered last week. (Check my archives for this information)

Now, you need to begin the

design layout!

Don't worry, as before, we'll take it one step at a time and look at tips to make the process easier. It would not work well to just draw any old shapes and patterns on to your design and hope for the best! You have to decide the best logical decisions to ensure that your plan will look good. This can be made easier by using tools such as geometry and grids to assist us.

The most important thing to remember is that designing your garden isn't about drawing pretty patterns. You are, after all, a designer, and not a decorator! Having said that though, there is a place for patterns in your plan as they can help to form an intrinsic part of the design. Totally confused? Patterns can create mood, direct movement, and even help to alter the perceptions of the space.

You need to decide which shapes are going to form your design and how you are going to compose. You don't need to pluck these shapes from thin air. Refer back to all of the information that you have collated so far and search for clues. If your design brief stated that the garden would be formal then this would suggest using solid shapes such as squares and rectangles. They would also need to be set out in a symmetrical pattern to emphasise the formal theme. On your functional layout plan, you have already decided where some of your shapes need to be located within the space and so use these as your guide. You may need to juggle a few shapes to permit them to sit better in your design. This is normal and shows that you are allowing the design to change and develop as your thoughts and ideas become clearer.

Not certain that your shapes and patterns look right in your plan? Not a problem. Think back to your principles of garden design: unity and harmony, scale and proportion, and balance. These principles should be applied to the process of positioning shapes and patterns. Try to relax and let your sense of imagination have a slightly higher say than sensibility. You don't have to get it right first time. Just keep experimenting until you get something you feel happy with.

Okay, so you've looked through all of your work so far and you've still no idea what direction to take your design in and indeed no idea what blimin' "shapes" to use! Take a step back from your garden design and think more about the composition of shapes in general. Get yourself some fresh paper and draw the outline to your garden on to it. Then, draw yourself some different sized shapes on separate paper and cut these out. Now, within your garden boundaries, place your shapes in different ways and see what looks good to you. This could help you to reach some decisions about your design.

Consider each shape individually and then look at how the shapes relate to each other. You will need to analyse each shape to fully understand how it can be used to most effect within your garden.

The Circle is a strong. formal and simple shape that occurs in nature. It has symbolic meanings in many religions and cultures, such as in China where it represents heaven and forms the basis of the Tai Chi symbol of Yin and Yang.

The circle is made up of a centre, a circumference, a radius and a diameter. We can also extend the radius out from the centre of the circle, beyond its circumference. A tangent can be created by placing a line outside the circle that touches the circumference and forms a right angle with the radius line. (See diagram) To join any shapes to a circle it is important to link these new shapes with one of the lines we have identified. If you do not use these lines then the design will look unbalanced and awkward.

The Square is also a formal shape. It is a man-made shape with rigid sides and axes that pass through it. It is composed of a centre, sides, axes and a diagonal. Lines from the sides and axes can be extended beyond the outline of the shape to help formulate and create adjacent shapes. The axes can be used to divide the square into smaller squares or rectangles. A rectangle can be formed by extending one side of the square.

Similar shapes are relatively easy to combine as they generally fit together fairly easily. if you want to combine different shapes, then just remember to join them using their different component lines and they should fit together in a more pleasing composition.

When combining shapes prevent yourself from placing them in such a composition that you create acute angles (less than 45*). This will be very difficult to actually landscape and will look weak . Creating acute angles normally arises when combining circles to other shapes. Whichever shapes you are combining they will need to differ in size to establish a dominant shape. If you fail to do this then the design will lack identity, be dull, and lack focus - sorry!

Circles can be combined in many different ways such as overlapping them or in concentric circles. When overlapping them it is best to make sure the centre of the overlapping circles passes through the circumference of the underlying circle. If there is too little overlap then you could be creating an acute or obtuse angle which may be difficult to deal with, and, once again, will not look right.

Have an experiment with a pair of compasses and see what you can do with circles. Try expanding the radius out of the original circle and drawing a new circumference so that you create a wedge. You can also try drawing circles with in circles and creating the appearance of a cut tree trunk.

Have fun and get to know your shapes!

Time to get a bit more technical with the whole shape thing. You can create a shape using a curvilinear design. A curvilinear design uses the the circumference of circles and ellipses to form the design. Try not to confuse this with natural and free-flowing designs, where you purely draw a shape with your hand and do not use other shapes to create it. To successfully create a curvilinear design, you will need to combine circles so that they are tangent to each other - the fewer, larger circles you use, the simpler and stronger the curvilinear design will be. Curvilinear designs work best in informal garden settings. Take a look at the diagram. You can see how the circumferences of the circles create the curvilinear design.

To combine rectangles is a fairly easy process and you can usually achieve pleasing results without much effort. They are useful for creating formal, symmetrical and asymmetrical designs. Consequently, they are used to link architecture with gardens and are often placed close to the house or building to create patios and terraces. Rectangular shapes do not work so well for informal designs.

To combine them, as with all shapes, use rectangles of different sizes. Try to keep the shapes fairly large and restrict the number used to prevent the design becoming messy and cluttered. There will need to be a hierarchy of sizes, preferably with one larger, dominant rectangle that is surrounded or overlapped by smaller ones. This theme works particularly well in long, narrow gardens.

You can develop the rectangular theme by laying then at angles to the house and creating diagonal themes. if a site is very short and small, using a rectangle at 45* to the house can can take away the emphasis from the closeness of the rear boundary to the house by directing the eye towards its longest axis.

When designing shape combinations it is important not to get too carried away - remember keep it simple.

Okay, so you've got your shapes but how do you position them into your plan? There is a method using grid-lines that can help you to position your shapes and make sure that your shapes are in proportion to the building or house.

The grid system works by taking a measurement from a feature on the house and using this dimension to create a grid square - this grid is then repeated to fill the site. The feature that you use to determine the size of the grid square should be located on your baseline or house facade so that it visually connects and relates to the garden. The theory is that the designer (you) can use this dimension to draw up a grid for use as an underlay, onto which you can then arrange the patterns and shapes that will form the design. The measurements used for the grid will have a direct relationship with the house, and resulting patterns should also therefore be in proportion to the house.

Take a look at this next diagram. The unit of measurement for the grid square has been taken from the french windows. The shaded squares show how you can use the grid to create shapes and patterns for your design. Easy, hey?

The grid-lines don't always work for every designer but have an experiment anyway and see if it works for you. You can also try scaling your grid squares up or down proportionately or, when you feel confident with the method, even rotating the grid 45* to the house.

Whether you decide to use the grid or not, try to link lines from the house or baseline to shapes in your design. This will continue to create a direct relationship with the house and the garden. If there are existing features within the garden that are to remain then these should also link to the new design in a similar way.

Once you have created some interesting shapes for your garden, experiment with them by tracing the overall outline that your shapes have made and considering how they look. It must be a shape that is possible to create in real life.

Remember, I mentioned freehand curves earlier? If you want to create a natural look to your design it is possible to draw curves and shapes freehand although it is somewhat harder. You will have difficulty reproducing your shapes and will have to use the offset method of measuring to ensure accuracy. If you create a garden using this freehand method, then you must make sure that the shapes are bold, natural and not forced. Give me geometrics any day!

When you have got to a stage where you're happy to combine your functional layout plan with your new design layout, use smaller, scaled-down, versions of your site outline and roughly sketch in your proposed design layout. By drawing these rougher sketches it will be less intimidating than drawing onto your larger plan and will hopefully allow you to be more spontaneous with your layout. Make sure that your smaller plans are still in proportion otherwise you'll end up in a right pickle when you try to draw it onto your larger plan.

Principles of Garden Design - How to Create Unity and Harmony in your Garden

Let's have a quick re-cap on what you should have by now!

You've measured and analysed your garden and drawn it all up to scale on a site and survey analysis survey.

You've asked yourself lots of soul-searching, probing questions and come up with your design brief.

You've decided what you would like most in your garden and laid it all out logically in your functional layout plan.

You've found inspirational pictures and colours that you like and put them together to create a mood board for your garden.

You're doing well and hopefully not finding the process difficult. It's meant to be fun and satisfying so hopefully you're not struggling with it.

Before we continue with the design lets take some time to look at different design principles that you should try to remember when you create your garden design. They will help you to make your design the best it can be. These principles should be used for all aspects of the design, from the site arrangement down to the planting plan and materials you choose to use.

The first principal we'll look at is

Unity & Harmony

No, I'm not going all airy-fairy here! Unity and Harmony determines how well the garden will "hang together". To ensure that each element of the design runs smoothly and effortlessly in to the next element.

You should try to "link" the garden to your house, both with structural appearance and materials used. Obvious examples of this would be a modern building of glass and steel sitting in a garden consisting of brick paths and cottage style planting. Similarly, a thatched roofed cottage would not look good if it's garden was made of concrete and stainless steel. These are easy "links" to establish, however the majority of peoples homes will be more subtle and you may have to investigate further to find something on your house that you can use to help you "tie-in" the garden. The "link" also applies to the interior of your house.

Look for recurring colours, textures and materials that you can take out to the garden with you. (Note how the cushions in this picture pick up the blue flowers planted in the garden) If you have wooden floorboards in the room next to the garden, you may want to continue the theme and have wooden decking as the patio area. Or, if you have a particular colour that you use everywhere in the house, you may want to choose plants that will only flower that colour.

Look for "links" that are most important to you and that will all help to make the garden appear to be an extension of the house rather than two completely different places. It's all well and good to add contrast to a design, but it should be kept to a minimum to avoid the design from looking confused and chaotic. If you do want to have an area in your garden that is contrast from the rest of the design, then you will need to find a way to "unite" them, so that it doesn't look too contrived. Use the same material to join the two areas - same gravel on paths, or same plants in a hedge joining the areas, etc.

Take a look at this picture. What do you like or dislike about it? Does it represent an image of good harmony and unity, or not?

Remember to look beyond the boundaries. You will need to tie in your surroundings with the design as well as your house. A rural garden in a town setting may not induce Unity and Harmony and could end up being a poor design - sorry!

There may be shapes of trees that are in the gardens vista that you can re-create in your garden and achieve a sense of harmony with the surroundings. Do you live in a region where there is a particular local stone, or other material that gets used all over the place? By using this same material you can help link your garden with its environment. Take a walk down your road and see if there's any material or features that get used repeatedly and accommodate them in to your design.

Try to restrict the number of materials that you use in a design. By sticking to two or three materials you will create unity in the design. Any more than four materials will make the design look chaotic and unrestful, especially if you're working in a small space.

Shapes in your design also need careful consideration as to how they interact with one another. Too many similar sized shapes will be dull and too many different sized shapes will create a very busy design. Finding a happy medium will create harmony in the garden. Try to include one dominant space or shape that can act as a focal point for the garden.

Repetition of shapes, plants and materials within a design can successfully hold a design together. Always have a dominant feature though, to prevent boredom from setting in to the design. Use nature to your advantage , and opt for plants that best suit your surroundings and situation. If you live near the sea, use plants that will thrive in coastal positions. Not only will they create unity and harmony with their surroundings, but you'll find them easier to look after!

Take a look at magazines and see if you can identify pictures that typify Unity and Harmony. Do any of the pictures that you chose for your mood board represent these principles?

If you are able to achieve a good unity and harmony in your design then the garden will be a relaxing and pleasant place to spend time in. So it's worth spending time making sure you understand how to achieve them.

So....How do you really design a garden?

By now you should have all the information that you could possibly wish for (maybe even more than you could wish for!) about your garden and what you'd like to see in it.

We can now begin the process of designing your new garden! Bet you thought it would never happen, hey?

Using all of the information that you have collected you can start to develop some design ideas - you probably have already got a few seeds of ideas floating about inside your head waiting for exploration. We need to understand a few principles that can "make or break" a design. Being armed with this knowledge will allow you to come up with the perfect design for your garden. You will need to understand the concepts of unity and balance, scale and proportions, simplicity and harmony. I'll go through the importance of all of these soon but for now though...

...in the words of this blogs title...

How do you really design a garden?

Rather than going head first into wonderful sketches and colour-rendered plans, it is advisable to break the design process into stages. At whatever stage you are at, you will find it helpful and inspirational to display as much of your research around you as you can, especially your site photographs. Don't try to work on just one piece of paper throughout the design stages. You're a creative designer now and as such, can be flamboyant and "arty- darling". Therefore, use lots of "throw away" paper and draw, write or sketch whatever ideas pop into your head. You can discard the ones that won't work and develop the ones that might.

Don't rush things. Take your time and develop the ideas you have in a non-pressured, relaxed environment. If you get excited about developing certain design ideas at this stage, chances are you'll get excited using those ideas in your actual garden when you've built it!

The first stage of the process is to create and study a "functional layout plan". This is a freehand drawing that will act as your first rough working plan. It will consist of "bubbles" that divide your site up into different areas to detect how the space in your garden flows. No intricate details are permitted at this stage. All we are trying to deduce is where abouts you would like to position certain features so that the garden will best serve your requirements. Look back at all of your research and your design brief (your interview) to decide what it is you most desire in your garden.

Here are some site conditions or requirements that might affect your functional layout plan:

The site has an ugly view that needs screening.

You want a seating area in the sunniest position in the garden.

You have small children that require a play area that needs to be within view of adults.

You have a shady area that you want to incorporate a water feature into.

This list is, of course, only a few examples of factors that will contribute to the plan. Consider your data and make your own list of the important things that you need/would like in your garden. Rank them in order of importance to you so that you can focus on those points. Any extras can be a bonus to the design if you can incorporate them into it. Your ideas and rankings may change as your design develops. This is normal and to be expected as you find the design that best works for you. Don't worry about it, just go with the flow. You can make as many functional layout plans as you need to until you are happy with the layout.

Got your list? Right then, lets put it into a functional layout plan then.

Set up your site survey and analysis plan onto your drawing board or table top. Lay a piece of tracing paper over it and trace over the boundaries and baseline of your site in pencil. If you have any fixed features on the site survey plan that are intended to remain in place, trace these onto the tracing paper as well.

You now have the outline of the garden in which to work. Looking at your list, choose the most dominant features that will need to be close to the house and then work outwards from there. Roughly divide up your garden into areas - using free-hand with a pencil. You can use a scale rule to help give you an idea of size of each item, but you should not have any straight lines in your plan.

Start by deciding where the major divisions need to be and how, if at all, they will be linked. Don't worry about actual details at this point- you don't need to know that a hedge will be dividing the play area from the lawn, etc - just draw each area so that they are almost touching (see diagram).

With your list of requirements, decide what the function of each one is and decide where it would best be positioned in your garden. Make sure that the conditions in the garden match the function of your requirement - putting a cool seating area in the sunniest part of the garden wouldn't work! Knowing how different shapes influence people's feelings and behaviour is important when creating the layout of the garden. The shape should be tailored to the function. For example, if you want an area where lots of people can relax together, then you would create a square or rectangle with almost equal sides to make them feel at ease. A narrow strip would not be conducive for people to socialise with one another.

Try putting your main features into your plan and experiment with different shapes and sizes. Later we'll look at the other important concepts to consider whilst creating your functional layout plan including, desire lines and focal points.

Think about What you Want - How to Create a Design Brief

So...What Do YOU Really Want???

Today we're going to look at creating a design brief for your garden design. It will enable you to focus on what you really want from your garden and how it can be put to best use to suit your needs.

Although it may be tempting to add lots of different elements to your garden, you will need to try to refrain from doing this. Some things may be unpractical and will just make the garden look cluttered - and quite frankly - UGLY!

Give yourself a mini interview - and take notes about the answers you give yourself. Do this in your head or at least make sure you are alone - otherwise your friends and family may become a little bit worried about your behaviour!

Ask yourself questions, not just about the garden, but about how you feel, what your hobbies, interests, likes and dislikes are. It will all help to build ideas and possibly themes for your garden.

Some important questions to consider are:

Who will mostly be using the garden, and at what times of the year?

Do you or your family go away for long periods at a time?

Are there any particular requirements for individuals who may use the garden ( disabilities, etc)?

Will children be using the garden? Now or in the future? Depending on their age you may consider play areas, storage for toys, football pitches. You will need to give careful consideration to safety in the garden. Be aware of toxic plants and consider whether water is absolutely necessary in your deign.

Do you, or family, have any pets that will be in the garden? Again, now or in the future? ( I have a rabbit that has the run of the garden and he can be a pest at times, eating all of my favourite plants and leaving the weeds!)

Do you have preference for a particular style? Maybe a formal or informal design? This could be influenced by looking at the house and its environment.

Also ask yourself what you like and dislike about your current garden. Look at what you would like to keep or definitely want to get rid of. You may find it useful to flick through magazines to get an idea of what design ideas you like. Visit friends gardens and copy their ideas if you like them.

Are you just wanting particular colours in your garden? Or have you favourite plants that you want to make a feature of?

How is your house decorated? Chances are that if you have a modern house then you will be happiest if your garden reflected this design. Similarly if your house is of a certain period, reflecting this outside will encourage a balance and unity between the house and the garden.

Do you want to have a lawn? It is labour intensive to keep one and if you go away a lot, you may find it a struggle to maintain. Think about all elements that you want to include in your design. Will they involve a lot of time to maintain them, or will someone else be doing the maintenance?How much storage do you require in your garden? You will need to allocate ample space for storage but try to blend it into your design so that it is not obtrusive.

Importantly, you will need to decide how much space you would like for seating. Are you a party animal who has lots of people over at a time, or do you want your garden to be a place of quiet solitude for you to escape to?

Start to consider what plants you would like to include. You do not, at this stage need to have an inclusive list, but have an idea of what type of planting you desire. The different types of planting should include screening, hedging, trees, structural shrubs, seasonal interest and ground cover. For ideas you can take a look through my archives at "Friday Plant Profiles" (I'll be adding more soon!). Include in your list, plants that you already have and want to keep. Add a note after each one to remind you that you already own them! Site requirements may dictate what type of plants you can have, sunny, shady, etc, so focus on plants preferring those requirements and you won't go far wrong.

Do you want to add art or sculptures to your garden? A well chosen piece of artwork can add lots to a design but you will need to make sure it practically fits your specification. Visit gardens that interest you and study which features, art, plants you like the most.

Seek inspiration everywhere!

Lastly...before you go absolutely crazy with ideas...try to consider a budget for all of these wonderful things you are planning to do! It's no good designing a masterpiece only for it to remain on paper for the rest of its life because you never quite manage to win the lottery. Be sensible with your ideas and budget and then you can actually make this design happen!

As you continue the design process, don't be scared to change you're mind. If, as your design develops, you decide that actually having an Olympic sized swimming pool isn't the best use of space, change the design and have a jacuzzi instead!

Take your time to really think about everything and you will come up with some really good ideas that we can then start to develop.

How to draw up your Site Survey and Analysis Plan.

Welcome back!

How did you get on with that jigsaw? Or did you take one look at it and panic like I did? Either way, I hope you had a good weekend.

Today, we're going to look at all of the measured and non-measured information that you've got from your garden, and we're going to draw it up in to our Survey and Site analysis Plan. Finally!

Don't panic! It's not that bad! Just a little time consuming, depending on how good you are a technical drawing.

The first thing you need to do is to decide what size scale you need to use. As mentioned before this will be based largely on how large your garden is. If your garden is huge - you lucky things- then you will probably have to use a scale of 1:200, but this is best avoided as you will not be able to add much detail and will be quite hard to draw.

For those of us with normal sized gardens, and those that are the size of a postage stamp, I'd recommend using a scale of 1:100 or 1:50. Whichever scale you chose though, you will need to measure the longest widths and lengths onto your paper to make sure that they fit. Not only do your longest measurements need to fit, but you will need to have ample room around your drawing to be able to make comments. If you try to crowd it into small gaps it will look muddled and confusing, and you probably won't have a clue what you were talking about when you come to use your plan. You will also need to decide the best angle for your piece of paper - horizontal (landscape) or vertical (portrait) - to allow for your drawing. It is usually best to try placing your building at the bottom of the page and working up from that.

Remember to mark on your plan what scale you are using and which way north faces.

For this to work you will need:

Tracing paper
Masking Tape
Smooth 'underlay' paper
Scale ruler
Retractable pencil (0.5mm lead)
T-Square
Adjustable set square
Beam Compass
Drawing Board (optional)

Using the masking tape, secure your underlay paper to the table top or the drawing board. You could use graph paper for this which will give you some sense of scale but it is worth remembering that very few, if any, of your measurements will exactly fit this. Next secure your chosen size of tracing paper over the underlay paper making sure that you can see the lines of the graph paper through it. You must ensure that any vertical or horizontal lines that or are draw on the plan are true and square. Otherwise you will end up with many errors and the plan will be inaccurate and meaningless.

The first line to draw will be your baseline of the house. Draw it in exactly the same direction that you took the original measurement. Next you will need to plot your boundary corners and draw in the lines to your boundary.

To plot your corners, refer to your triangulation notes. Use your scale rule to adjust your beam compass to correspond with your first measurement from, the fixed point at the house to the boundary corner. Now place the 'spiked' end of the beam compass at the location of the fixed point of the house on the drawing, and, using your best guesstimate, hold the pencil end of the compass in the area you believe the boundary corner to be. Then, when you're fairly happy with the position, scribe an arc in that area. Repeat this process with your second triangulation measurement (probably from the other fixed point on your baseline). Where the two arcs meet - that is the actual position of your boundary corner.

Easy, huh?

Continue this process for each point that you have triangulated in the survey. Once you have your boundary plotted, you can then continue to fill in the rest of the drawing. Plot everything that you measured on-site and write information around the edges to complete the analysis. (See Diagram Below)
For features that you measured using the 'offset' method, you will need to plot them onto your drawing in exactly the same method - plot the baseline you used and measure from each point along it, just as you did in the garden.


If measurements are not adding up now that you are putting them onto paper, you probably made an error in the recording stage and will need to re-measure. Don't beat yourself up over it. Simply pop back out to the garden and re-measure - problem solved!

Take as much care with drawing as you did with the measuring. Your plan needs to be as accurate as humanly possible.

And that's all there is to it! It's fairly simple - it's just really time consuming!

Taking a separate piece of paper, you will need to draw up elevation drawings to accompany your Site Survey Plan. Work through your measurements in the same order that you took them, starting from the baseline. Add written information to relate to features along the house front (or whatever the subject of the elevation is) onto your new elevation plan. I'll go into elevation drawings at a later date so don't worry if you can't get the hang of it yet.

The important thing at the end of this stage is that you know exactly what exists in your garden and have an accurate drawing, or drawings, recording that information.

If you're satisfied that you have done all of that -Well Done!. You are now on your way to becoming a garden designer!

The next thing we'll look at, is trying to decide what you might like in your newly-designed garden.

How do you feel? The final part of site analysis!

Have you recovered from our mammoth session yesterday? We're nearly done with the site analysis but there's still some things to consider. So, if you're ready to crack on then let's get going again.

It is important in any garden to understand its climatic conditions. It will directly influence many of your design solutions, adding screening and shelter for plants and people, or helping decide which plants to use.

The climate is directly influenced by the location of the site. A garden close to the sea would create a fairly mild climate (depending on the orientation of the coastline) as you rarely get frosts or snow close to the sea. If you were situated very close to the sea, it is more than likely that you would suffer from strong winds and salt spray, which would affect the climatic condition of your garden. Built up areas and towns can offer a warmer climate for gardens than rural situations, as the neighbouring buildings create shelter. However, you need to be aware of wind funnels that sweep between buildings and can cause quite a lot of damage to any plants in their path. When you're searching your garden for clues to what your climatic condition may be, make sure you check for signs of wind damage, which will conclude that you have a wind problem in your garden - unless it's blowing a gale, in which case, you'll be able to tell how windy your site is without studying the plants! You can recognise wind damage on plants by scorched markings on leaves, which would, in severe cases turn the leaf brown and dry up completely. Larger shrubs and trees may be growing in a different direction if they are subjected to strong winds over a long period of time. What is the typical amount of rainfall in your region and does that affect how dry your garden is? If you have a particularly dry site, you will need to consider plants that will tolerate drought better. The other extreme would be excessive rainfall, and this can have a damaging effect on plants and soil. In heavy, long lasting down pours, soil could be pounded to such an extent that it is made smooth and in this case, water has difficulty penetrating the surface. Check your soil after a heavy downpour. Dig down a little and see how far the water has soaked down. This will give you a good indication to what your drainage is like.

If your garden suffers from heavy frosts then you will need to carefully decide which plants to grow. Trying to grow a banana in the British countryside is unlikely to work! Built up areas and coastal regions rarely suffer from frost and if you have a garden located in such a place, then you can be more adventurous with your plant choice.That's if you want to be, of course!

Recognising climatic conditions is fairly simple - just remember that everything in your garden is linked - climate, soil type and environment are all contributing factors to the condition of your garden.

Okay, so now you are beginning to learn a lot about your garden. You will need to also know whether your garden has any problems with drainage. Look at existing patios, paths and steps. Are there any signs of bad drainage? You may need to run a hose over them if it's a dry day to see if there's any pooling of water. This would suggest that the fall of the patio, or steps, etc, is not at the correct level and water is unable to drain away. If areas are green with algae and slippery then you've likely got bad drainage in that area. Don't forget to check flower beds for drainage problems too. Many drainage problems could be related to poor soil conditions and can be easily rectified. Built up, raised flower beds may not have adequate drainage in their walls and this will also need to be rectified or plants will just 'sit' in water and their roots will become waterlogged and eventually die of suffocation. Lawns should also be laid at a slight angle to allow for surface run-off. If your lawn is covered in a lot of moss and creeping buttercup, then you have poor drainage. This can be improved by aerating your lawn and adding lawn sand at certain times of the year.

Whilst we are considering drainage and water, make a note of any water features that you may have in your garden. You will need to observe not just what it is - plastic pond, brick water fountain, etc - but also any types of wildlife present. Are there any fish or frogs present? If it is well positioned and maintained annually then there should be signs of life and the water should be clear. If it is not then you may need to consider a different option or position.

Consider also the views into and out of your site. How overlooked are you? Is their an eyesore outside of your garden that you'd rather not see? Is there a particular window in the house that you would like a better view from? Remember seasons will affect your views at different times of the year.

If your thinking big for your design and are planning on major excavation work, then you will need to locate any service lines or pipes that are in your garden. Chopping through a gas pipe could be dangerous and costly!

If your site is situated in a conservation area then you will need to check with local authorities what work is permitted to be carried out in your garden. Likewise if you have a particularly beautiful or rare tree in your garden it may be subject to a TPO (Tree Preservation Order) , and you will need to seek permission before you carry out any work to this tree. Make sure you're aware of any public right of ways through your property. I don't think ramblers would appreciate a brick wall suddenly appearing on their Sunday morning walk!

Whilst noting all of the plants that are currently growing in your garden you will need to make notes of which ones you'd like to keep, move, or get rid of altogether. Don't panic that you don't know any of their names. Take a good plant reference book out in the garden with you and work out what they are from that. If you are still having difficulties, take samples, making notes of what growing habits they've got. Then, take the samples to a local garden centre. They should have experts on site that will be able to identify the plants for you. Bear in mind that not all plants may be showing at the time of year that your analysing. Perennials and bulbs may be hidden below ground out of their growing seasons. Try looking at past photographs if you cannot remember exactly what you've got. If you're in a new garden, then it would probably be advisable to wait until you have experienced all seasons in your garden before making any final plans. You never know what might pop up when you least expect it!

Take a closer look at the plants whilst you identify them and check for signs of damage by pests and diseases. Again, you can use a reference book to identify any problems and then can decide what remedies need to be taken.

Finally... take time to consider how you "feel" in your garden. Although it is important to record all of the above details, it is also important to be aware of how you, and your family, fit into the space. Does it make you feel relaxed, energetic, claustrophobic? It is your garden and you need the design to fit your purpose. If you want a garden that the kids can play in but it currently has extravagant planting then you will need to consider what modifications are needed. Start to become aware of what you want your garden to do for you. This will help when we come to creating a design brief later on.

Magnifying glasses at the ready, it's time for the site analysis!

How did your random sketching go? Don't worry if what you had in mind didn't really happen when you tried putting it on paper. We'll go through drawing techniques at a later stage and you'll be able to convey your ideas then. Until then though keep practicing.

Right, where were we? By now we have all of our site survey measurements and some piccies to go with it. We will need to draw up this measurements on a scaled plan soon but before we do that, we need to capture, and record, any other information about the site that is potentially important and relevant to the design process. This part is known as the site analysis and includes all non-measurable information. The information you gain here can be added to your final site survey plan, or you can do a separate plan. It will depend on how much information you find and how complex the plan is in the first place.

To carry out a site analysis you will need to pretend you have never been to your garden before. There may be things that you just don't notice any more, like a train passing by or excessive traffic noise. By pretending that you've never been here, you are more likely to notice things that you have become blind to. Of course, at times it will be helpful to remember things that occur in other seasons, for example, where bulbs come up in the spring and which plants provide good autumn colour.

You will need to 'get a feel' for the garden. To do this, don't just look at the physical landscape within the boundaries, but study the garden's surroundings. Where are you? Is your garden set amongst countryside, or woodland, or more town gardens? Are there any visible structures outside of your boundaries that affect the 'feel' of your garden. It can be good or bad, you need to observe and record everything!

Take a thorough look around your garden. Are there any elements that suggest a theme or would influence the new design? Are there features or materials that you would want to keep? Take a look at your house? Is it a particular style or period? You could use this style to influence your design. If you wanted to create a garden that was true to style, then visit a library, (or a search engine!) and research what gardens were like in the year that your house was built. If you want to, visit show gardens that depict designs from that period and seek inspiration. If you have a period house and want to include some historical elements to the garden, but don't want a complete restoration, then look at what materials were used then, or methods that were used. Including small elements of the period can work just as well to creating a link to the building as a complete restoration would. Another way to create a link between the house and the garden is to use similar proportions in your garden as are on the house facade. It is subtle, but will help your garden to flow, and make you feel at ease when you are in your garden.

An important piece of information to know is the orientation of your site. Which way does it face? Use your compass to establish in which direction magnetic north faces, and note this down onto your rough survey plan. You will also need to note what conditions are like on-site. Is part of the garden shady, gloomy, damp, a sun trap, etc? What shadows are cast by certain tress or buildings throughout a day? You can do a little exercise to find this out by choosing a relatively sunny day and making a study of how the sun moves around the garden at hourly intervals. Draw yourself another rough outline plan of your garden (doesn't need to be drawn to scale), and mark down any large features that may cast shadows (sheds, trees,etc). Each hour, sketch the areas that are sunny or shadowed onto your rough plan. Remember that the sun is higher in the summer and so you will get different shadows in your garden at different times of the year. The garden will have less light in the winter than in the summer. You will need to think of every season and how each element in your garden would be affected by them. By being aware of these factors you will be able to successfully chose plants that will flourish in your garden. If you observe moss or green algae on walls and steps it would suggest that there could be a drainage problem and this will need addressing too.

As well as considering physical factors you will need to observe environmental ones. A busy nearby road can cause noise and air pollution and may be something that you wish to improve when you come to create your design. There may be a local industry that creates pollution, and whilst it will not be possible for you to do anything about this, you can develop a design that will help disguise the problems.

You will need to know what type of soil you have (and no, saying it's muddy isn't good enough!). If you are unaware of your soil type and quality then any plants you try to grow will have a greater chance of failing.

All soils consist of four parts - inorganic materials, organic matter, air and water. It is the balance of these four parts that determine the quality and fertility of your soil. When analysing your soil you will need to record the texture and the pH level (pH means the potential hydrogen content, and tells you how acidic or alkaline your soil is). The texture of most garden soils generally fit into the categories of sandy, clay, loamy, chalky or peat. We find this out by examining the different particles that make up the soil. This is much easier than it sounds and simply consists of you rubbing a moist sample of the soil in between your fingers to determine its texture. Do this in several places in your garden, as the texture may differ in different places.

To tell what the texture is, here is a short description of the characteristics of each type:

Clay - the particles are less than 0.002mm in diameter. It is a fine textured soil that feels sticky to touch. In extreme cases you can work the soil into a shape and it will stay that shape! It is heavy to work with and is slow to warm up in the spring due to its high water content. It can be very fertile. In winter it can easily become waterlogged and in summer it becomes cracked and shrinks when dry. It's not all bad news though, as its make-up does hold many essential elements that are needed for healthy plant growth.

Sand - is gritty to touch. It is light and free-draining and warms up quickly in the spring. You will be able to work a sandy soil easily but its free-draining nature means that nutrients will be washed away quickly. As it loses water and nutrients easily, it tends to become acidic quite quickly and needs to have as much organic matter added to it as you can find. This will help to retain the moisture.

Loam - steals characteristics from both clay and sand. It is moisture-retentive and fertile, but will compact easily. If you've got this soil then you are in an enviable position, as it is easy to work with and encourages healthy plant growth for a wide range of varieties.

Chalk - is pale and shallow. It is free-draining and fairly fertile but is very alkaline making your choice of plants limited. Nutrients get washed through quickly and you will have to work hard to improve it with the addition of rich organic matter and fertilisers.

Peat - is very humus rich and fertile. It is dark in colour and retains moisture well. It is a good growing medium but tends to be acidic and would benefit from the addition of loam and drainage material. You will need to focus on acid loving plants for this soil type.

Look at the diagram below. You will see that soil is made up of four layers;

Surface Layer - contains organic debris from leaves, etc.

Topsoil- where most living organisms (worms, grubs,etc) and highest levels of nutrients live. This is due to the surface layer of organic matter which releases nutrients into the soil below it. This is the best part of soil for growing plants as they will absorb the nutrients whilst searching for oxygen and water.

Subsoil - supports less life than the topsoil layer. It is usually firmer and more compacted and nutrients that have been washed through from the topsoil will settle here. You will usually find it lighter in colour than the topsoil as it supports less life. If you cannot notice much difference in colour between the topsoil and the subsoil, then it would suggest that your topsoil is deficient of organic matter.

Parent rock - supports no life and derives from rock that is local to your area.

To find out the proportion of each of these layers in your garden, it is usually sufficient to take samples of soil with a trowel and a plastic bag. Again, remembering to take samples from various places around your garden. If you need a better inspection then you can dig a soil pit. This hole will need to be large enough for you to see into it. Once you can see the colour of the soil, either by looking at the sample in the plastic bag or in the pit, you can determine what condition your soil is in. If the soil is dark brown or even black in colour then it would suggest that the soil is rich in organic matter, and if it is also well drained then it is likely to be rich in nutrients. If the soil is extremely black then it is likely that there is a drainage problem. A well-drained soil is usually brown to the depth of one metre. A soil that is completely waterlogged will sometimes turn a blue/slate kind of colour. If your soil is grey or white then it would signify that the soil is chalky or that it has had its nutrients washed out.

Now you should have a good idea of what type of soil you have and just how good its going to be at growing plants. You will also need to know it's pH level. The higher amount of Hydrogen present in the soil signifies more acidity. The lower the amount of Hydrogen present in the soil then, yes, you guessed it, the more alkaline the soil is.

The pH scale goes from 1 to 14 with acidic readings starting at 1. If you get a reading of 6.5 - 7 then you have a neutral soil. A reading of 13 indicates an extremely alkaline soil and so on. I'm sure you get the picture! Most soils in temperate regions will vary between the pH readings of 4 (acid) and 8 (alkaline). When you know your pH level of soil you will be able to choose the plants that will grow best in that soil type. Trying to grow an Azalea in a soil with a pH reading of 10 just isn't going to work!

The pH level controls the release of nutrients in the soil. The more extreme a pH level (at either end of the scale), the more plant nutrients are locked out of the soil. This will prevent the growth of certain plants. If you have a neutral reading then you are in the most fortunate position as most plant nutrients will be released and you can chose from a wider variety of plants. Although, if you were hoping to create a Japanese garden, you'll have to add ericaceous composts and feeds, else the plants just won't grow - they need acid soils.

So, you've read all of that and I haven't told you how to find your pH level reading! Easy. If you haven't already done so, go to your local garden centre and buy a pH soil testing kit. They will vary in price and sophistication but you can pick up simple ones that only cost a couple of pounds. Most of these kits give you an indication of the pH level by using a colour chart. When mixing water to the soil sample only use distilled water as this a neutral pH and won't affect your reading.

It would be advisable to take soil pH readings and texture samples from the same places on-site. You will be able to note down on your rough plan what each reading is. If you are running out of room on your plan now then you can number the positions on the plan and add a list on another page.

That's enough to be going on with for today. We'll continue to look at the site analysis tomorrow.

Back to work - Measuring level changes in the garden

Okay, party celebrations over. Time to get back to work!

If I remember correctly (and I do because I've just re-read it) then we were discussing your steps and how they change level.

Any level change in your garden needs recording whether it's steps or slopes. Measuring them isn't actually that bad, so there's no need to panic just yet! If the incline is particularly complicated then it may be worthwhile hiring a professional surveyor. If you're willing to give it a go though then well done you.

The key to getting this bit right (and in fact any other bit) is to work methodically and accurately. If you haven't used your assistant up to now, then it may be a good time to ask them to put down their cup of tea and come and help you. There are different methods for measuring levels, but whichever method you choose you must make a record of not only the change in level of a certain distance, but also make a record of the actual distance you are measuring. Plot the points that you are recording on to your survey plan. If you fail to do this and later cannot locate the points then it will have been a complete waste of time and you still won't know your level changes for your plan.

The most common method of measuring level changes is to use a straight piece of timber and a spirit level. You will also need shorter wooden pegs. Aim for your piece of timber to be 3 metres long if you have an average sized garden. Starting at the highest point, place your long piece of timber (i'm going to call it Woody from now on because it will be quicker to type) onto the ground. Support Woody with a wooden peg at the lower end. Sit your spirit level on top of Woody to make sure it's straight. Then, when you're happy that Woody is level, measure the distance from the bottom edge of Woody to the ground. This will tell you what the fall of the land is over a 3 metre period. Needless to say if you can't fit a 3 metre "Woody" equivalent into your space then use a shorter piece, allowing for this in your calculations. You can repeat this procedure over a longer length by moving Woody along each time (see diagram).

If you are unable to obtain a 3 metre piece of timber named Woody (name optional), then you can carry out the same procedure using a 3 metre length of string. This method isopen to more error though as you must remember to keep the string taut at all times.

Another method of measuring changes in ground level is by using optical measuring equipment. This equipment is really useful in much larger gardens and is usually available to buy or hire. As we are looking to save money by designing our gardens ourselves though, I won't go into detail about this method.

Whatever method you eventually opt for you will need to establish a datum point onto your survey plan. The purpose of a datum point is to allow you to have a fixed point that all subsequent measurements can be related back to. Where you decide to position your datum point is not crucial although it would be easier for you if you pick somewhere that is accessible. often the datum point is positioned close to the house or in a piece of ground that is going to remain at the same level when the design is completed.

At a risk of confusing you even more, the datum point, once you have chosen it's position will be known as your 'zero level point'. All recorded heights will then either be higher (+) or lower (-) than your datum point (zero level point).

At your chosen datum point position on the survey write "0:00". If your next level measured is, say, 70cm lower than the datum point, it would be written as "-0:70" or if the level recorded was 30cm higher than the datum point, then you would write "+0:30". Get it?

And that's all there is to it! Easy huh? You can have another cup of tea now and then we'll get the camera out!

Refreshed? Good. This next bit of the site survey is the easiest of all. This is the bit when you can be like David Bailey (or any other photographer you admire) and snap away to your hearts content.

"Why do I need to take photos when I can just look out of the window?"

Photographs provide an excellent record of the site and you can use them to create underlays for any sketches of designs (brilliant if you're not picasso!). The best way to capture the whole garden is to take a composite photograph. This involves you standing in one spot and rotating 360* taking a series of photos that overlap each other. When you have your photos you can piece them together like a jig saw. If you have a posh photo editing programme you may be able to piece together the photos on the computer, and then print out the finished composite photograph. Whichever way you chose, the proportions of the garden will get extremely distorted, and you will need to remember this when you use them as underlays for sketches.

What are you like at drawing? You may find it helpful to draw or sketch a particular scene or feature in the garden that you want to capture. By sketching it you will become more familiar with it as you're having to actually study it, and not just click a camera at it.

Once you've got your photos, have a mess around with them. Enlarge or reduce the images and make photocopies of them. Grab some tracing paper and put it on top of your photos as an overlay. Try sketching new ideas on top of them. They don't have to be masterpieces. It's just an opportunity to start experimenting.

Knowing how to make your Measurements

Right! Back for the next step already?

We are, you'll be pleased to hear, onto the last stages of recording measurements on-site. Now that you've calculated all of the baseline details you're ready to measure the rest of the garden-hooray! First things first, you'll need to measure the boundaries. At this point it's worth pointing out that your garden, in most cases, will not be square (or rectangular). Even if you have an amazing eye for details and would swear to a court of law that yours is square (or rectangular), it's worthwhile checking these things properly, all the same. Most gardens are an irregular shape - which is really annoying at times! - and it is necessary to get these measurements absolutely correct. Am I repeating myself here? Sorry, but it really is important to measure your garden accurately.

There are a few techniques used in carrying out a site survey. Let's look at two of them in detail.

Triangulation

This technique helps to establish correct angles and is excellent for measuring boundaries. Also, if you have a random tree (or other feature) on-site that you cannot measure from the baseline, then triangulation would work well for this too.

In order to use triangulation, you will need two fixed points that feature on the baseline. In other words, you need to refer to two known measurements from your baseline. It is usually the two corners of the house, but it could be any measurements you want to use. It will be easier to do if they are some distance apart though, as they'll be less cluttered on your rough survey plan. In case I've confused you, your rough survey plan is the bit of reasonable sized paper on your clipboard that you've sketched your baseline measurements on. Once you've established your two fixed points, simply take your second 30- metre tape and measure from each fixed point to the item that needs measuring. In the first instance this will be the top boundary corner of the garden. When you put these two measurements together they will form a triangle and establish the exact position of the boundary corner (or whatever item it is that you're measuring at the time).

Recording this on your rough survey plan, you will find it less confusing at a later date to ensure that you label each fixed point (see diagram below).

In the diagram, you can see that 'point A' and 'point B' are on the baseline and the item being measured, in this case, the boundary corner, is 'point G'. Note the triangle that is created from the two measurements.

Always make sure that the two measurements are taken to the item in the exact same place. If you were to measure a tree, for example, and with one reading you went one side of the trunk, but with the next reading you went to the other side of the trunk, it could be very inaccurate - depending on how old the tree is! You would need to measure in the centre of the trunk, or, do two different triangulation measurements of the tree and later measure its circumference.

If an item that you need to measure is too far away from your baseline's fixed points, then you will need to establish new fixed points closer to the item. This is okay to do so long as you ensure the accuracy of these new fixed points. You can have as many fixed points on-site as you require. Try to keep it as simple as possible though otherwise you'll end up in a right pickle when you come to draw it up later.

Once you have established the boundary corners you can continue to measure the lengths of the boundaries and record the results onto your rough site survey. When you come to create your design, you will need to know who owns each boundary. If you decide to do something spectacular with it and your neighbour owns it, you may end up in all sorts of trouble. Don't forget to write down any information about the boundary itself in your little note pad. Include features such as, what material the boundary is made of, it's height and what condition it's in. If you're looking at a fence, then you'll need to measure each panel and so forth. You will benefit from knowing as much as possible about your garden. Get intimate with it!

You can measure all of the features along your boundary by repeating the same process that you used for the baseline. There may be other features along the boundary that you will also need to record. Flowerbeds, plants, pond or structures may all be present. If you are measuring flowerbeds, you will need to record the position of plants in the bed. This may make your rough site survey too crowded and you may find it easier to complete a seperate sketch for each flowerbed. To measure the plants you will need to start from your boundary and run your measure to the centre of the plants. This is actually an offset measurement, which we'll look at in a moment. For large, spreading plants you will need to record the spread too. It would be helpful if you were able to identify the plants that you're measuring. Don't worry, we'll look at that plant identification later too.

For all internal features on-site you will need to decide whether the triangulation method is the best to use, or whether you would get a better result using the offset technique. Both methods are fine and you will probably have to use both during the survey. So long as, whichever technique you are using, the measurements come from a fixed point.

Offset measurements

These are excellent for determining an irregular shape such as lawn edges, flowerbeds and ponds. You will need to introduce a new baseline that is in a more convenient position. Wherever your new baseline is, be it along a fence or down the middle of the garden, make sure you plot that baseline in relation with other fixed points. Using your steel retractable measuring tape, take measurements from your new baseline at right angles to the feature to be measured. Use aset square if necessary, to ensure excat 90* angles. Take measurements at regular intervals along the feature (see diagram below), allowing closer intervals for more curvier subjects. If you find your baseline is greater than, say, 3 metres from the feature you are trying to measure, it would be advisable to move your baseline closer to avoid inaccuracy.

Try to be as methodical as you can when you measure your garden. When you worked on your original baseline, I encouraged you to measure any features that were close by. If you are certain that you have all measurements required in the area of the first baseline, you can move it and use the tape for new baselines around the garden. Unless you want to use this process as a fitness workout and want to run about all over the place, then you'll find it easier, and faster, to measure an area of your garden just once.

Make sure that you record every feature, whether you plan on getting rid of it or not. If you have a summerhouse, that you intend on getting rid of, but later change your mind, you will already have its dimensions and position to hand. Remember to measure heights and thicknesses of retaining walls. With greenhouses and other buildings don't just measure to the apex of the roof but also to the lowest part of the roof. Remember to observe the way the doors open, their width, any other interesting details that you may find helpful later on. You will need to measure any steps in the garden, including the risers ands depth of each step. Any features, such as lighting or handrails will need to be recorded.

Are you exhausted yet? Don't worry you're nearly finished with this stage, then you can move onto more exciting parts of garden design.

If you have got steps in your garden, then that indicates that you must have a change in levels - don't lie to me now, I'll know! Guess what? You'll need to measure the level changes too. I'll go into that next time. Right now though, I'd say you deserve a nice cup of tea/coffee/other after all that hard work!

More Garden Designing Secrets Revealed

So...How did you get on with your baseline?

No problem, right? Good. Now we're up and running with this recording garden measurements thing we can crack on.

As I said yesterday, the next thing that we need to measure are all of the vertical measurements on the house. "Why bother?" I hear you ask( actually I don't hear you at all, but that would be really clever wouldn't it?). The purpose of having a detailed plan of your house face is so that any design you create matches in with architecture and is kept within proportion to the building. Although you may not be aware of it at the time, if you design a feature that is out of proportion to the house then it just won't 'sit' right in the garden and will bug you forever, or until you get so fed up with it, you rip it out and change it.

To record the vertical measurements of the house you need to include everything you can see. It sounds a bit daunting, but actually, once you get going, it's not that bad - honest. Remember to record the dimensions and locations of all windows and doors, windowsills, air bricks, vents, downpipes (carrying water, electric, gas), taps, and also the damp proof course (DPC) level. If you can't see a DPC then it may not be visible or may not even exist - don't worry about it in this case then. You will need to be really detailed with measurements for the doors and windows. Don't just record their dimensions, but also measure the doorframe, jamb, and where the middle point of french doors are located. You will also benefit from noting which way all doors and windows open. On the windows look out for not only the actual size of it but where the glass finishes and the sill begins. You might find on inspection an unusual pattern of glass that you can incorporate into your design at a later date.

In order to record all of this accurately, imagine that your baseline tape is now running up the right-hand side of the house face as you are stood looking at it ( only imagine- don't actually move that baseline tape!). Your original point of origin will still be in the same position. Now, using your steel retractable measuring tape, record from the base of the building up to each feature that doesn't reach the ground (see diagram below). You should already have it's location along the building face from your original baseline measurements but you may find it handy to check. There's inevitably something that gets missed.

You won't need to risk your life to measure the whole height of the building. Nor will you need to run to your neighbour, asking to borrow their ladder (apologies if you, yourself, own a ladder). You can approximate the height of the building by counting the courses of bricks and multiplying them. You will need to measure a brick and one side of the mortar joint to do this!

Before you ask what to do if there is no exposed brick, here's what to do. Simply take a photograph of the house, and using a known measurement, for example a window height, calculate how many times that measurement fits within the height of the building. Any features that are above the ground floor may not be directly relevent to the design of the garden and so there is no need for complete accuracy with these measurements. It is acceptable to guesstimate these measurements.

Whilst making all of these measurements, it is wise to add notes in a separate pad, to record details and observations as you discover them. Note the style of the house, colour of bricks, etc.

If your house has a conservatory or existing extension then you will need to take this into careful consideration before you lay your baseline. You will need to record all the measurements of these additional buildings too - sorry!

Now you should have every measurement required to give you an accurate drawing of the house face. You may also have measurements for existing drain covers, outlines of patios, built-in bbqs, etc. That's all good. These will enable you to make a detailed site survey drawing to scale later on.

A Bit about Scale and how to work to it.

The purpose of a scale is to represent a full sized garden. I would be seriously impressed if you could find a sheet of paper large enough to draw a fully sized plan of your garden but I somehow doubt that that is possible.That is why scale is so useful. You can create an exact replica of your garden just smaller.

Before I get all technical with the scale talk, you may find it handy to have your scale rule close by.

If you require a detailed drawing then it is advisable to use a larger scale (these are the smaller numbers on the scale rule). You will need to be careful with just how large a scale you decide to use though, as the larger the scale, the larger the paper, and that could cause difficulties. A drawing that is produced using a scale of 1:20 is going to be much larger than a scale drawing at 1:100. The size of paper needs to be practical to use. I use A2 or occasionally A3. I find that A4 is just too small. There needs to be room for detailed notes as well as the drawing.

The following scales are usually used for garden design drawings:

A Scale of 1:200 - every unit of your drawn plan represents 200 units on the ground. So if you draw 1cm onto your plan, it will represent 200cms, or 2 metres. This scale is restricted to larger gardens where details are not really required.

A Scale of 1:100 - every unit of your drawn plan represents 100 units on the ground. So if you draw 1cm onto your plan, it will represent 100cms, or 1 metre. If you have a small or medium sized garden then this is the scale for you. You will be able to include a reasonable amount of detail without needing a forest to achieve it (that's a metaphorical forest- you don't have to put one in your garden!).

A Scale of 1:20 - every unit of your drawn plan represents 20 units on the ground. So if you draw 1cm onto your plan, it will represent....yep, you guessed it, 20cm on the ground. This scale is excellent for more detailed drawings, such as construction drawings and very small gardens.

A Scale of 1:50 - is between the two scales above and is commonly used for planting plans and medium gardens.

Have a look at your scale rule. You will see that it includes ( or mine does anyway) scales of up to 1:500, 1:1000, 1:10000, 1:1250. These would all produce tiny drawings, so are generally used for producing maps and plans of extremely large areas. I'm talking country estate size here, so it's best you avoid these sized scales, unless you own a country estate that is!

It is vitally important to draw your plans to scale so that you can eventually have your design created in real life. If some poor person is having to re-jig your design so that it fits into your allocated space, they aren't going to be happy.

Try practising using your scale rule to draw simple objects. Only use your scale rule to make measurements. Do not use it to draw the actual lines. This will ruin the edges of the scale rule and future results will be innaccurate.

Try drawing these rectangles at scales of 1:100 and 1:50:

• 6m x 12m
• 3.5m x 5m
• 16m x 8.5m

Repeat the exercise using these following dimensions:

• 10cm x 5cm
• 15cm x 20cm

Now draw them using scales 1:10 and 1:20

Remember to write the scale that you decide to use on the bottom right-hand side of each drawing you produce. That way, when you refer back to it, you won't have to spend ages trying to work out what scale you were working to.

The next part of the site survey to measure, are the boundaries and features within the garden. I'll talk about that later. For now though, have a practice of scale drawing with those rectangles and measure your house facade.

Garden Designing made easy (ish)

So... how do you fancy learning something new today?

Have you ever looked over the fence at your neighbours garden and wished that your garden looked as good as theirs? Have you spent hours admiring their water feature, or their planted borders? Do you want to have a poshly designed garden but can't afford the extortionate fees that professional designers charge? ( I sound like an advertisement, sorry!)

I'm going to use this blog to show you some of the techniques that I use to design gardens. As with before, these are only my suggestions and are in no way, shape or form, gospel. There are no set rules for how to design a garden and you may know of a better way. That's fine with me, but you may find a few tips here anyway,that you hadn't thought of.

Okay...are you ready? Let's get started.

Before you even dare to consider what you might like in your garden, you will need to carry out a site survey. This will give you a measured plan of your garden and provide a blank canvas with which to create your masterpieces. It sounds quite boring, and, I'm afraid to say, it is! However, it is the most important part of designing your garden. Get this stage wrong and your designs won't fit causing all sorts of problems later on.

Can't draw? Don't worry, you won't need to be an artist to do this. It's just a matter of doing things in a methodical and logical manner to ensure that you end up with an accurate site survey drawing.

Things you will need:

• A clipboard and pad


• Large drawing pad - graph or plain paper


• Pens and pencils (pencils work better if it's wet, but I recommend only going out when it's dry, just because it's nicer then!))


• Scale Ruler (I'll go into more detail about scale later on)


• Beam Compass - allows you to create larger arcs than a normal compass


• Measuring tapes - should be 2x 30 metres if possible


• A 10 metres steel retractable tape measure


• Magnetic Compass (unless your already know your site orientation)


• Strong bamboo (or anything else) canes, or poles with which to mark out areas


• One 1 metre spirit level


• Soil pH testing kit (you can buy disposable kits from any garden centre - I'll talk about soil types later on)


• Some clean plastic bags and labels for your soil samples


• A digital camera (you could use a camera that needs film but it is harder)


• A trowel


• A pair of secateurs (how overgrown is your garden?)


• A large ball of string, 20- 35cm wooden pegs and some lengths of timber (this is to measure any differences in ground level)


• You may like to consider getting yourself an assistant at this point to help with the survey

And that's it, you're ready to go measure that garden. You can of course, use anything else that comes to hand that you might find useful. Old bricks or stones for holding down tapes, etc.

Okay, so the primary purpose of a site survey is to accurately measure the plot. However, it is also at this time that you should make notes of anything that may influence your design. Become a detective in your own who-dunnit mystery and use your sleuthing skills to spot any potential problems. For example, there may be old electric cables running just underground, which if later dug up could prove rather dangerous.

Don't think that you can only measure the plot in one go. If you think, when you come to drawing up your site survey that you've made a mistake, get yourself back out to the garden, and measure it again. Take as much time as you need. As I said before, it's important to get this bit right.

When on-site ( this means you're in your garden but I'm going to refer to it as on-site now as it's quicker for me to type), you will need to make as accurate a record of all features as possible. You will not need to draw your plan to scale at this point. Which is lucky, as if it was pouring down with rain, it could prove tricky to be drawing a scale plan! You will however need to sketch a rough plan of everything you need to measure onto your graph paper (or whatever paper you chose to use). You may find it beneficial to record some of the main features (boundaries and baseline) to scale whilst you're on-site to ensure accuracy when you come to draw up the entire site survey. Your chances of success are greatly improved if you use a sensibly sized piece of paper for your on-site draft - using a small sheet of paper is just going to get too crowded with numbers for you to read it.

A quick lesson on how to use a measuring tape

Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs at this point, but it is important that you get to know your particular tools well. Familiarise yourself with your tape measures (you don't need to be on first name terms with them, knowing what they look like will suffice!). Some tapes are bound by metal ends which unfold to produce the start of the measure. Have a look at yours. It may be that it starts at 3-4 centimetres. If this is the case you need to remember this when you are using it.

When using your tape, make sure that the ends are up close to the position you want to record and that you hold it taut. Do not allow the tape to twist and keep it as low to the ground as possible. Holding a tape high could cause it to sag and you would not get an accurate reading. This could occasionally be unavoidable in the garden setting. For example, you may need to measure through large shrubs. If this situation occurs, don your camouflage paint and army trousers and head into ambush (or should that be "a bush"?). The only way to do this successfully is to get right into the thick of things. Your secateurs may come in handy at this point!

Measuring tape lesson over.

The first thing that you will need to establish on your site survey is the baseline. This is a line between two static points in the garden that you will take all major measurements from. It is usually taken from the line of the side of the house that faces the garden. This is because, with a bit of luck, the person who built your house, built it straight and so should provide accurate results. After this you can then measure the boundary walls, or fences, that come from the baseline. You should try, as much as is possible, to use the baseline to record all significant features. This includes any drain covers, trees, or plants that you wish to keep. At times, it may be necessary to have more than one baseline. If you're lucky enough to have a garden that surrounds your house, then you will need to create a baseline for each side of the house and take subsequent measurements for that side of the garden only. Are you still with me? Or have I lost you completely?

Let's look in detail at how to measure the baseline...

Arm yourself with your first 30 metre tape. Position its end at the left-hand boundary of the house and secure it there. Now run the tape along the edge of the house and to the edge of the garden (boundary) that is in line with your baseline (see diagram a). This is your baseline and will be referred to as the point of origin for all future measurements. Following this, you will need to plot every detail that happens along the baseline. For example, doors, drains, air bricks, etc.

The baseline in this diagram runs along just in front of the house rather than up against it. This is to allow for any protrusions such as doorsteps. Notice that all measurements are written at right angles to the line. This is to prevent numbers muddling into one another and creating chaos when you come to draw them up.

When you measure points along your baseline, you should measure starting from zero. Refer to diagram a again, you will notice that each feature is measured from the same point of origin, in this case, the left-hand boundary. You should never move your baseline, or point of origin as any mistakes made will acculminate and be made worse with subsequent measurements.

If, as is in the case of our made up house in diagram a, your fixed baseline has had to to be laid away from the house wall to allow for protrusions, then you will need to use your steel measuring tape to record where the house face moves in and out.

Once you are satisfied that you have all of the measurements that exist along the baseline, leave the measuring tape where it is, you will need it again.

The next thing to record will be all of the vertical measurements for the house face. I'll discuss that later though. For now, just focus on getting your baseline measurements accurate and we'll go from there.